By Nicholas Boer
Emeryville’s Pig in a Pickle does barbecue right.
So tender is the brisket at the new Pig in a Pickle in Public Market Emeryville that the more challenging it is to get to the waterfront city, the better—and those who live nearby are doomed to become barbecue addicts.
All the sustainably sourced, lightly smoked meats we tried at this few-weeks-old sister restaurant of the 5-year-old Corte Madera spot were palate-busters, particularly the ultra-tender brisket; super-spicy, thin-skinned links; and chef-owner Damon Stainbrook’s pulled pork—lightly crusted and shredded to almost feathery strands, yet as juicy as slow-smoked pork butt can be.